“Traditional sometimes means rustic, but that’s not the case here.” Why La Bogliona is considered the apotheosis of Barbera d’Asti

Scarpa’s Barbera d’Asti La Bogliona, writes Scarpa’s U.S. importer Ernest Ifkovitz on his website, is “the top single-vineyard Barbera from traditional Barbera d’Asti specialist Scarpa in the Monferrato. This is the wine that helped put Scarpa on the map when Mario Pesce first conceived of making a serious, age-worthy Barbera d’Asti in the 1960s. La Bogliona continues to show that Nebbiolo is not the only Piemontese variety that’s capable of making great, long-aging wines.”

A superb writer in his own right, Ernest’s article on La Bogliona is arguably the best and most definitive profile of the winery and the wine.

“Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa has been producing traditional wines in the Monferrato hills of southeast Piemonte since 1854,” he writes.

    But it was Mario Pesce, admired by both Giacosa and Gaja, who made Scarpa’s reputation in the second half of the 20th century. Traditional sometimes means ‘rustic,’ but that’s not the case here. A very present gusto della casa (house style) produces elegant wines with arrow-like acidity and well-aged tannins. In the 21st century, Scarpa continues to produce each year small quantities of more than a dozen wines from 10 different grape varieties and to release gradually wines from its ample library of bottles going back to the 1960s.

Click here to read the entire article, including vinification notes, technical info, historical background, suggested pairings, etc. It’s a truly exceptional piece of wine writing — worthy, no doubt, of its subject matter!

Chapeau bas, Ernest! Thank you for this excellent profile!

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